13 – 17 October – Sightseeing in Lombok

Wednesday, 13 October

I had an early breakfast then joined Jorg, Jakob, and Shirley for a trip into the main town of Mataram. This started with a boat trip from the marina to the mainland, where we were met by Aram, the driver of the car arranged by Jorg. We were then driven into Mataram, a picturesque journey along the coast of Lombok passing through the main port of Lembar, and which took 1.5 hours.

We spent the morning at the Epic-Centre, the main shopping mall in Mataram, doing our shopping. I bought 3 iPhone charging cables, and several other bits and pieces, including some dry stores from the main supermarket in the mall. Jorg and I then enjoyed a burger at the Burger King whilst waiting for Jakob and Shirley.

We spent the afternoon at a local temple, one Jorg had identified and which had been built by the King of Lombok in 1744. There are really two temples: the royal temple and the public temple, although both are now accessible by the public. The temple grounds include a large man-made square lake with a centre island and causeway. The lake was originally a swimming pool for the ladies of the King’s harem. The centre island was, and remains today a meeting place for the heads of the 6 religious groups in Lombok: Muslim (2), Hindu, Catholic, Protestant, and Buddhist. These meetings take place every month.

Thursday, 14 October

A working day. I prepared the wood trims on the gunwales for oiling again, and sorted out the boat for sailing out some time next week, after my new Indonesia visa has been issued (my current one expired today) and my Singapore order has been delivered (the goods are now in Jakarta and should arrive in Bali today).

Jorg and Jakob came by at 1500 and hoisted me up the main and mizzen masts so I could check the rigging – all good.

Friday, 15 October

I awoke to a pleasant sight: Rona was moored on the pier. David is taking her to Labuan Bajo, sailing during the day and stopping at night, and the marina was her first stop after leaving Bali. We arranged to meet up for dinner as I joined Jorg, Jakob, and Shirley for a trip to the main waterfalls in this part of the island.

These waterfalls are some way in land and a bit off the beaten track, but well worth the long drive. A guide took us around the park where the 4 waterfalls are located, which was just as well as the route to some of the falls is fairly tortuous and physically demanding for an old guy like me. Shirley however, seemed to make light of the various climbs and descents through the jungle!

All of the waterfalls are pretty, but the main and largest waterfall is particularly so. It consists of 4 separate falls of water flowing into a main stream in which two man made pools have been built for visitors to swim in. Shirley and I decided to try them out. The water was very cold but refreshing, and just what I needed after all the climbing during a hot and humid day.

Before leaving the park we stopped for lunch at one of the restaurants. The park is normally full of tourists but with Covid-19 there were few other visitors. Our timing was good, as the heavens opened during lunch!

After lunch we went to a traditional Indonesian village. Again, this is normally a popular tourist spot, but we were the only visitors and the “village” is clearly struggling. To help their finances a little, I bought a sarong and hand woven shirt.

Back at the marina I had dinner with David and his guest, Lee, who was born and grew up in Welyn Garden City in Hertfordshire – about 10 miles from my home! Lee now lives in Australia on the Gold Coast, when not staying in Bali. Small world!

Saturday, 16 October

I met David and Lee for breakfast and learned Rona was leaving the marina today for Gille Aer, the next stop on her passage to Labuan Bajo. Gille Aer is one of 3 islands off the NW coast of Lombok, at the northern end of the Lombok Strait. As Shahna Bacal was ready for sailing, I decided to go with them. A trip to Gille Aer and back would be a good shake down trip, during which I could test the hydraulic steering, autopilot, GPS and instruments.

Rona sailed at 1000, and I followed any hour later after settling up with the marina and checking out of my room. It was great to be back on board and on the water again. There was no wind so I was motoring .Everything appeared to be working well and as the autopilot was steering the boat I relaxed and enjoyed the trip. The wind picked up as we reached the northern end of the strait and I raised the main sail to check out the new outhaul arrangement which is a marked improvement on the old one. As black clouds were on the horizon, I then put in a reef in the main and the jammer on the first reefing line is now holding.

I had now caught up with Rona and as we were approaching Gille Aer I hung back and lowered the main sail, leaving Rona to go into the main bay first to find a mooring buoy. After mooring, she then launched her dinghy and helped me to find and tie up to one of the other mooring buoys; and I was all fast by 1612.

It was now that I located the leak in the hydraulic steering system. Looking over the stern I saw a slow, periodic drip from the starboard steering ram. The drip was not coming from any of the hose connections but from a hairline crack in the ram itself, between the universal joint and the main piston. I wrapped a rag tightly around the crack which stopped the dripping but not the leak.

At 1730 David picked me up in his dinghy and he, his son, and Lee and I went ashore for drinks and dinner. Gille Aer is the middle of the 3 islands, all of which are tourist destinations although Gille Aer, I was told, is the quietest of these islands. It is particularly quiet now, as there are few tourists and most of the beach resorts appeared empty as we walked past. Nevertheless, we enjoyed drinks and dinner on the beach at one of these resorts, before returning to our boats at 2130.

Sunday, 17 October

I was minded to stay in Gille Aer, but when I woke up at 0600 I saw a text from the marina informing me that my package from Singapore would arrive tomorrow and I decided to sail back immediately. Now the boat was ready I was keen to start the voyage to Darwin.

I checked the tides and got underway at 0730 so as to catch the south setting tidal stream. It was a clear day and the wind was light, and I made good progress, averaging 5 knots all the way back to the marina.

I returned the way I had left, passing to the east and south of Gillegede Island, and made fast starboard side alongside the end of the “T” pointing west, the direction I would sail out when leaving for Darwin. I was all fast by 1230, and after sorting out the boat, I spent the afternoon ashore relaxing by the pool. I returned to the boat after dinner, and relaxed in the cockpit wearing my new sarong.

Temple at Mataram
Temple at Mataram
Waterfall – with Jakob, Shirley, and Jorg
Gille Aer – drinks with Lee, and David’s son