My voyage was in two parts: Singapore/Nongsa to Lombok; and Lombok to Darwin.
On the first part of the voyage I covered a total distance of 1424 nautical miles and was moving at sea for a total of 396.2 hours (which ignores the times when I was hove-to). During this time, I had the engine running for 181.8 hours, so for about 46% of the total time. My average speed was 3.59 knots and I consumed a total of 443 litres of diesel at an average rate of consumption of 2.44 litres per hour.
On the second part of the voyage I covered a total distance of 1038 nautical miles and was moving at sea for a total of 243.4 hours. During this time I had the engine running for 191.6 hours, so for about 79% of the total time. My average speed was 4.26 knots and I consumed a total of 451 litres of diesel at an average rate of consumption of 2.35 litres per hour.
Rob Walker and Phil Denham were monitoring my progress throughout and the AIS screen shot below was kindly provided by Phil Denham and shows my track from Singapore to Darwin.
Now for my next voyage from Darwin to Mooloolaba, provisionally scheduled for April next year ….
I woke up at 0800, checked around the boat and listened to the weather forecast on the vhf radio which was followed by a Covid-19 message. This message caused me some alarm, as Darwin was in ‘lock-down’ and I wondered if I would be allowed in. I therefore called the Entry Operations Centre and they confirmed I should proceed to the Cullen Bay Pontoon on Monday morning for inward clearance, and for the in-water biosecurity treatment. Relieved, I prepared the fenders and mooring lines accordingly, then stowed the head sails, put the covers on the main and mizzen sails, and stowed all the gear I would not be using again.
The weather was particularly hot and humid, and the temperature inside the saloon reached 38˚C in the afternoon. I ran the engine for a while to recharge the batteries and keep the small fridge running.
Monday, 8 October
I weighed anchor at 0700 shortly before high water so that I could approach Cullen Bay pontoon when the tidal stream was slack and berth over high water.
I had been told no one would be allowed to take my lines or otherwise assist me in berthing alongside the pontoon. Mooring therefore, was going to be a challenge especially without a bow thruster and a long keeled boat which is unpredictable when going astern.
My first attempt at berthing was going well but I was just a little too far from the pontoon to be able to put the mooring lines over the bollards on my own. On the second attempt I got closer in; and I managed to put the forward and after spring lines on the same bollard, and manoeuvre the boat alongside so as to be able to put on the stern line. I had to go ashore briefly though to put on the bow line on. The pontoon was then largely deserted, and I never came into close contact with anyone in the few seconds I was on the pontoon. I did however, receive a gentle slap on the wrist for doing so.
The authorities in Darwin have been clearing boats inwards during the pandemic now for some months and impressed me with their efficiency and helpfulness. They were done with me by 1030 when Drew and his diving team then inspected the underwater hull of Shahna Bacal, and put chemicals in my sea water intakes. I was then directed to proceed to the bio-security anchorage just outside the Cullen Bay breakwater entrance, where I was to carry out the chemical treatment on the sea water system for the engine.
Letting go and getting off the pontoon was less of a problem, and I anchored shortly before noon in position 12˚26.9S; 130˚49.1E. From the chart I estimated the water depth to be about 3 metres or so, but as the height of the tide at low water was only 0.3 metres, I left the engine running to charge the batteries again and until low water had passed, in case the boat started to take the ground and I needed to move into deeper water. As it was, the boat remained well afloat and as low water passed I stopped the engine and carried out the required chemical treatment.
I confirmed with Dani at Tipperary Waters Marina that I would be berthing port side to the berth which is almost directly opposite the lock gates, and re-rigged the fenders and mooring lines accordingly.
Tuesday, 9 November
I got up during the night to be on standby again during low water, and then again at 0530 to ready the boat for moving to the Tipperary Waters Marina. My plan again, was to weigh anchor shortly before high water so as to arrive at the lock gates for the marina on high water when the tide would be slack.
I weighed anchor accordingly, at 0630 and motored slowly around to the marina, enjoying the view of the city of Darwin from close off-shore. Navigating up the creek was interesting too, with the many small boats on moorings and at anchor.
I was off the marina by 0800 as planned although I had just passed the entrance when Dani called me on the vhf to let me know. I turned around and manoeuvred into the lock without much difficulty and then onto the berth. As before, no one was allowed to help me or handle my lines, and it took me a while to get the boat properly in position and all fast alongside the berth.
I then spent the next 1.5 hours battening down the boat for my absence, until a policeman arrived at 1030 to escort me in a special Covid-19 taxi to the Howard Springs Reception Facility where I was to spend the next 14 days in quarantine.
Darwin – 1Darwin – 2Tipperary Waters Marina, Darwin
I got up at 0530, had breakfast and then began preparing the boat for sailing, transferring fuel from the containers on deck to the sump tank.
I slipped off the buoy mooring at 0800 and motored out from the port passing through the Semau Strait. Being close to the shore I was able to FaceTime Sue and Alexandra, and to speak to Rob and Bill about the weather. Light winds were forecast until Wednesday so I decided to head east on exiting the Strait, following the coast of Timor until 1500 when I altered course to head direct to Darwin. In this way I was as able to keep in telephone contact with Sue throughout the morning and early part of the afternoon.
There were a lot of electrical storms in the vicinity from 1500 onwards, and I experienced some rain in the early evening, during which an alarm sounded, indicating a problem with the AIS. I decided to look into this in the morning. The wind (which was light throughout) died away during the night, leaving a calm sea with little swell and at midnight I hove-to under bare poles to get some rest.
Sunday, 31 October
The weather and sea conditions were the same when I resumed passage at 0718, but there were rain clouds ahead; and I went through some heavy rain showers between 0830 and 0930, and again between 1200 and 1330. After these rain showers, the wind started to fill in from the east, but not enough to warrant hoisting the sails.
I checked all the AIS connections and re-booted the system after which it appeared to be working again (the red alarm light on the splitter unit had been replaced with a green light). No AIS targets were being displayed on the chart plotter screen however, although when I checked with Rob, Phil Denham confirmed he was still able to receive my AIS transmissions. I suspected there was a problem with the chart plotter unit therefore, which I would look at again when I arrived in Darwin.
When planning my passage to Darwin I had decided to follow a direct course from Kupang passing over the Sahul Banks. I had read the caution notice and sailing directions in the Admiralty Pilot but was convinced there would be no un-charted shallows of less than 2 metres (the draught of Shahna Bacal) and knew most yachts took this same direct route from Kupang to Darwin. For some reason however, I made myself anxious on re-reading the Admiralty Pilot and mindful that my echo sounder was not working I decided to stop for the night at 1900 so as to cross these banks in daylight. In this way I hoped to be fully rested and alert, so as to able to see any shallow reefs and breaking surf in time to avoid running aground.
With little wind, sea and swell, and the boat stopped, I was now able to properly concentrate on making dinner.
Monday, 1 November
I got up at 0400 feeling well rested and started preparing the boat for sailing, getting underway again at 0518 as the sun was rising. There was still little wind, sea and swell and I spent the entire day motoring.
I crossed the shallow charted section of the Sahul Banks between 0800 and 0900 and was back in deep water by 1000, feeling suitably relieved. Given my low height of eye, my E’ly course and the position of the sun, I doubt I would have seen any shallow reefs in time to avoid them, unless there were breaking waves over them.
I had an interesting encounter with another small boat around noon, the first small boat I had seen for some time. I was now some considerable distance off the coast of Timor and this boat did not look anything like the other Indonesian fishing vessels I had seen earlier during my voyage. It was originally shaping up to pass well clear but then altered course as if to intercept me. Whilst unlikely, given the reports of pirates operating in Indonesian waters, I made a precautionary call to Rob. Subsequently, the boat altered course again and passed clear to starboard, and did not try thereafter to follow me. Later that afternoon, I saw two other similar boats and marvelled at how far off-shore these boats were prepared to travel in order to catch fish.
As I was making good progress, averaging just over 5 knots in the benign wind and sea conditions, my intention was to motor through the night but come 2100 I was very tired. At this time however, I was passing south of the Bayu-Undan oil field and wanted to be well clear of the rigs before stopping. I continued motoring therefore, until midnight when I hove-to in order to get some rest.
Tuesday, 2 November
I got up at 0500 and was underway again at 0642. Today was another day like yesterday: clear sky, little wind and calm sea – perfect for motoring.
I saw a helicopter pass overhead around 0900, clearly on its way to the rigs in the oil field; then an aeroplane made a low fly past around 0940 and then called me on the vhf radio. The aeroplane was operated by the Australian Border Force (ABF) who I believe, were tracking me on AIS, and aware that I was heading for Darwin. I found this very re-assuring.
Having watched the wind freshen thereafter I decided to try and sail, and raised the main and jib at 1130. By the time I had done so, and tidied up the lines, I noticed a big black cloud ahead and realised I would soon be entering another rain squall. I just had time to batten down the hatches and change into my wet weather gear when the rain started. The wind was strong, gusting over 30 knots, and the rain heavy, with hail at times. The boat however, took it all in her stride.
The rain squall laster for an hour, leaving light airs and a very confused sea in its wake; and I lowered the jib and started motor sailing with the main trimmed accordingly. I knew from Rob and Bill that strong E’ly winds were forecast for Wednesday (15-20 knots) and Thursday (15 -25 knots), and my hope was that these winds would arrive early and I would not have to take the main down and heave-to. In readiness for these stronger winds however, I decided to be conservative and put two reefs in the main.
Sadly, by 1900 there was no sign of the wind freshening and as I was feeling tired, I decided now to lower the main and heave-to for the night to get some rest. When heaving-to and as before, I always switched on the anchor light, spreader light (to illuminate the fore deck), and cockpit light (to illuminate the after part of the boat). The spreader light however, did not come on so I rigged two torches on deck instead.
Wednesday, 3 November
I got underway again at 0500. The sun was now rising and it was a clear day without a breath of wind. In anticipation however, of the forecast E’ly winds, I raised the main keeping in the two reefs, and started motor sailing.
The wind finally started to fill in from the east around 0630; and I now raised the head sails and mizzen, and stopped the engine. The E’ly wind was not as strong or constant as forecast and I was minded to shake out the two reefs, but settled in the end for just shaking out the second reef.
I managed to keep the boat moving without resorting to using the engine, but it was slow going. It was however, a welcome break for me to be sailing again as I could now leave the tiller and did not have to keep checking the heading every few minutes to see if we were still on course. My hope was that the wind would hold all day and through the night, and freshen as forecast but shortly before midnight the wind died completely and I had to start the engine.
Having slept well my intention was to keep going through the night, and I was able to keep all the sails up by sheeting them in tight and keeping the engine at 1500 rpm, with what little wind there was on the starboard bow.
Thursday, 4 November
By 0130 the wind had freshened again and I stopped the engine and resumed sailing. I sailed through a rain squall at 0312 which lasted an hour, with wind gusts of 30 knots – and I was glad I had kept one reef in the main.
After the squall had passed the wind died away leaving a confused sea, and I resumed motor sailing setting courses which best suited the boat in the prevailing conditions. Then at 0600 I encountered further rain storms with yet more heavy rain and strong winds.
I was finally clear of the rain storms by 0730 and at 0900 the E’ly wind filled in again, and I resumed sailing on the starboard tack, making good a course of about 040˚. By noon however, no distance was to be gained by continuing on so I tacked onto the port tack, shaking out the reef in the main. Although I was now only making good a course of about 180˚ on this tack, it was shortening the distance I had to sail to Darwin.
The wind fell away in the afternoon, and I resorted again to motor sailing, putting the reef back in the main at 1600 as another rain squall approached. This squall passed quickly, after which the wind backed to the NE, enabling me to motor sail directly towards Darwin. Unfortunately, the wind died at 1700 and at 1900 I lowered the main and head sails.
I was feeling very tired and at 2100 I stopped the engine and hove-to under the mizzen sail. I now had just under 100 miles to go to Darwin.
Friday, 5 November
At 0200 I stood by in the cockpit as another rain squall passed, and observed that in strong winds (20 knots) the mizzen sail does keep the boat steady, lying with the apparent wind between 30˚ and 60˚ on the bow.
I resumed passage at 0618. As usual after rain squalls there was little wind and a confused sea, which made motoring slow and heavy going. Fortunately, the sea settled down and it turned into a beautiful day for motoring; and later the wind started to fill in from the south, and was sufficiently strong enough to encourage me to raise the jib as well. With jib, mizzen, and motor, and a favourable current in the Beagle Gulf, I was making 8 knots at times!
Around 1600 a bird landed on the main boom and settled there. At 1800 after the sun had set I saw the loom of the lights of Darwin on the starboard bow. The bird was now on the pulpit, and as it remained there as I lowered the jib, I think it had to be exhausted.
I was expecting the current to become adverse as the tide changed but it remained favourable as I made my way through the Beagle Gulf. I wanted to enter Darwin in daylight, so at 2100 I reduced engine speed. Shortly thereafter, at 2120, Charles Point light became visible bearing 125˚, and at 2300 I altered course to 090˚ to pass along the coast to the entrance to Darwin Harbour. I was contemplating now, where to best to heave-to…
Saturday, 6 November
At 0100 I arrived off the entrance to Darwin Harbour. There was some traffic and a build up of clouds with flashes of lightening in the vicinity. I lowered the mizzen sail and then motored in a NE’ly direction, over onto the eastern side of the harbour entrance, and clear of the designated anchorages on the eastern side of the channel, where I hove to.
I was now surrounded by electrical storms and heavy black rain clouds; and it rained heavily from 0200 to 0300, reducing the visibility to near zero, with strong gusts of wind. As the AIS was not working, I remained in the cockpit with the engine idling throughout, and thinking how ironic it would be if I was run down with so little distance left to go. I was wet and cold despite wearing my heavy weather gear, but probably not as cold as the bird which had since moved onto the cockpit awning, and then onto the main deck.
I started to motor in towards the harbour at 0430 as the sun was rising (my clocks were still on GMT+8 hours), and so as to catch the last of the flood tide. The tidal range in Darwin is large (7 metres plus) and the tidal streams are strong (4 knots plus). It was still raining over parts of the Australian coast, and as the land around Darwin in low lying, I struggled to make out any obvious land marks. I decided therefore, to follow the direction of the main shipping channel into the harbour, but keeping outside and to the east of it, using the red, port side channel buoys for guidance.
I made contact with Darwin Harbour Radio on the vhf, and as I had been advised by email earlier in Singapore, I was directed to the quarantine anchorage in Fannie Bay. The tide started ebbing as I approached the No.6 channel buoy and I was struggling to steer a straight course into the strong, adverse tidal stream; and I had to ‘crab’ my over into Fannie Bay. As I was making my way to the anchorage the bird flew away. I watched as it disappeared in the distance, and hoped it made it safely to wherever it was going.
I anchored at 0836 in position 12˚12.5S; 130˚48.8E in a charted depth of 6 metres. As the height of the tide at the next high water was 7.9 metres I put 30 metres of chain in the water, then set about tidying up the boat.
Once secure at anchor I prepared for going overboard to clear the propeller. Meanwhile, with Rob’s help Rompi now had a fix on my position and was on his way out to me in a boat. I decided to wait therefore, until he arrived before getting into the water.
Rompi’s boat arrived alongside at 1530. He had several crew with him and when I explained what had happened, he arranged for two of his crew to dive in and clear my propeller. I got into the water as well, to check there was no visible damage to the propeller, or to the rudder and underwater hull; and I was very relieved to see no signs of any damage.
It did not take long for Rompi’s guys to clear the propeller. Rompi then told me I would have to move Shahna Bacal down to the south end of the bay close to the town where he had a couple of mooring buoys. Once fast to one of these buoys he would then take my fuel containers ashore for refilling, and return them to me. It was a shame he didn’t tell me this when we spoke in the morning as I entered the port!
I checked over the engine, primed the fuel system, and fearing the worst, I turned the ignition key – and was very relieved (again!) when it started. I tested the engine ahead and astern, and checked the stern seal for leaks. As everything appeared to be fine, I then set about raising the anchor.
Rompi and two of his crew remained on board to help me, and I let Rompi ‘drive’ whilst I kept a close eye on the engine, gearbox and stern seal as we slowly increased speed. There were no problems and I said a quiet thank you to Yanmar for installing load cut-outs on the engine!
Shahna Bacal was all fast to one of Rompi’s mooring buoys at 1745. The buoy was about 20 metres off the sea wall but Rompi assured me there was plenty of water for the boat to swing around on the mooring. He and his crew then departed with my 10 fuel containers, to get me an extra 200 litres of diesel (18 litres in each of my 10 containers plus a further 20 litres).
Rompi and his crew returned at 1915 with my fuel, and helped me stow my fuel containers on the deck. They then left me to go ashore to enjoy their Friday night. From my mooring I could see the bright flashing lights of the local night spots and hear the disco music. For me however, it had been a long and exciting day, and I turned in shortly after they left.
I was very relieved to know that there was nothing wrong with the engine and propeller, and pleased that I would be able to continue my voyage to Darwin in the morning. My worst fears not having been realised, I slept well …
Fouled propeller Fouled propellerWhat fouled the propeller
I got up at 0540 and left the marina at 0730 motoring off and clear of the berth and the boats on the buoys. As there was no wind at this time, I stopped and raised the main and mizzen sails and stowed the ropes and fenders. I then motored slowly out in the Lombok Strait the same way I had came in exactly 3 weeks earlier.
Once out in the strait the wind picked up and I raised the head sails and stopped the engine, setting off on the port tack. The tidal stream was now favourable, setting Shahna Bacal southwards, and with the wind now from the south, force 4, I was making good a speed of nearly 4 knots along my charted course. Around 1000 when the tidal stream turned however, I had to start the engine again in order to make progress southwards; and it took me another 5 hours to clear the southern end of the strait. At its peak the north going tidal stream reached 4 knots, and I seemed to spend a lot of time looking at the same bit of Lombok real estate!
Once clear of the strait I was able to bear away and resume sailing, and when the wind started to ease at 2000 I resumed motor sailing making 5 knots with the engine at 1700 rpm. I noticed now, that the masthead light was no longer working, although the sidelights and stern light were all still working; and I switched on the anchor light in its place. Not a perfect solution but at least I had a white light at the masthead.
Everything was going well until 2340 when the autopilot alarmed, and stopped working. I had been topping up the hydraulic system during the day, but it was now losing oil quickly, the leak having clearly worsened. I was obliged therefore, to resort again to tiller steering; and I had left the tiller connected for just such an eventuality. This did mean however, that I would have to heave-to again when I needed to rest; and that under motor I would not be able to leave the tiller for more than a minute or two at a time.
Sunday, 24 October
The wind died completely at 0030 and I lowered the main and head sails; and at 0300 I stopped the engine and hove-to in position 09˚11S; 116˚40E. There was no wind at this time but the swell was about 2.0 metres high from the SW, and although of long period it made sleeping difficult ,and I resumed motoring an hour later, at 0412.
My good friend, Bill McCarthy, was monitoring the weather and recommended to Sue that I pass north of Sumba Island, and not south as I had planned. In this way I would encounter stronger winds; and accordingly, I set a new course of due east. I suspected now, that I would have to call at Kupang for fuel, and I adjusted my charted courses to pass north of Sumba and onto to Kupang.
The sight glass on the header tank had now become so cloudy that it was impossible to see the oil level. I know however, that the engine consumes about 3 litres per hour and the throughput of the transfer pump is about one litre per minute. I got in the routine therefore, of running the transfer pump for 15 minutes after every 5 hours of motoring; and in this way I knew the header tank would always contain sufficient fuel.
At 1300 the wind filled in, becoming SW force 4 and I was able to resume sailing. I found it very difficult to balance the boat however, with the wind on the starboard quarter and the SW’ly swell now increased in height to about 3 metres. I was obliged therefore, to continue hand steering. I was getting tired, but I wanted to make the most of this wind and especially as I was making good a speed of nearly 5 knots.
It was 1900 before the wind started to die. I lowered the main and head sails and hove-to to make dinner and get some much needed sleep.
Monday, 25 October
I slept well despite the swell, which reduced in height during the night, getting up at 0500. After breakfast and transferring 50 litres of diesel from the containers on deck into the sump tank, I got underway again at 0730. It was a beautiful day, clear with calm sea and long, low (0.5 metre) SW’ly swell and in these conditions Shahna Bacal was making good speed again.
The wind remained light throughout the day, never getting above 8 knots, and died away again after the sunset. The night was very clear and calm and my wake was phosphorescent – a magical sight. I could now also see the shore lights on Pulau Sumba.
I kept motoring until midnight when I hove-to again in order to get some rest.
Tuesday, 26 October
As usual, I got up every 2 hours to briefly check around, finally getting up at 0530. I transferred a further 50 litres of diesel from the containers on deck into the sump tank and cleaned the impeller on the speed log which had stopped working. I then got underway again at 0730. It was another beautiful day with calm sea and no swell at all.
The wind started to fill in around 1030 and I raised the main and head sails, and stopped the engine. The wind was initially from the NE but veered round to the east and I spent the afternoon tacking along the northern coast of Pulau Sumba, to get around Tanjung Sasar. Once clear of this point I was looking forward to a long run on starboard tack down the eastern coast of Pulau Sumba. As the sunset however, and with Tanjung Sasar light close on the starboard beam, the wind died and I had to take down the sails and resume motoring.
I decided now to head directly towards Kupang and set my course accordingly. After an hour I noticed a squall approaching and battened everything down. Fortunately, the wind did not get above 20 knots but the rain was heavy and there was much lightening.
After the squall had passed I kept motoring until midnight, heaving-to in position 09˚21S;120˚22E.
Wednesday, 27 October
I chose a bad time and place to heave-to! After I had stopped the boat and was ready to turn in, I noticed Shahna Bacal was being set towards the shore at 1.5 knots. Whilst I was some distance from the shore, in 6 hours – the time I hoped to sleep – the boat would drift some 9 miles. I thought the mizzen might be adding to the rate of drift, but after lowering it, the rate increased to nearly 2 knots. I reconciled myself to sleeping for only 2 hours, but shortly after turning in, I saw bright lightening flashes and heard thunderclaps as the weather turned squally again. With strong winds to worry about now, as well as the strong current, I decided the safest option was to resume passage, which I did, starting the engine again at 0118.
I spent the next 6 hours motoring through the rain squalls. Although the winds did not get above 25 knots, the rain was heavy and there was much thunder and lightening. Once the squalls had passed however, the wind died away and it turned into a lovely sunny day.
The wind did freshen later from the east, and enough for me to raise the sails and try sailing again. Unfortunately, the wind was only enough to enable me to make 2 knots! I tried motor sailing for a while, but eventually lowered the sails and resumed motoring.
With the sun still shining, in the afternoon I set about cleaning up the cockpit and drying out the cockpit cushions. My intention was to keep motoring until midnight, but I was too tired and hove-to under bare poles at 1930. By this time the wind had died completely, and the sea was flat, almost like glass, with no swell and hardly a cloud in the sky. Magical!
Thursday, 28 September
I got up at 0600 and readied the boat for sailing, getting underway again at 0800. The wind started to freshen at 0900 and I raised the sails again and stopped the engine. It was great to be sailing again, and as the wind remained steady, SE’ly force 3 to 4 all day and into the night, I managed to keep sailing until the wind finally died around 2200.
I decided now, that I would keep motoring through the night so as to arrive in Kupang during the next morning, as I had now only a little over 60 miles to go.
Friday, 29 September
As the sun rose I could see the islands of Timor, and at 1000 I managed to speak to Rompi, the guy Albert had told me to call and who would arrange to deliver fuel to me on the boat. The cruising guide said boats could anchor close inshore near the town but I could not see any other boats at anchor, and after examining the chart, I could not see any obvious places to safely anchor close to the town. Accordingly, and mindful that my echo sounder was not working, I told Rompi I would be anchoring in the northern end of the bay, some 5 miles north of the town.
The northern end of the bay was wide and shallow, and I picked a position to anchor where the water depth was between 5 and 10 metres and which was some 5 miles due east of an island in the bay. I then lined up so as to approach this position with the island right astern, keeping my latitude constant and monitoring my longitude so I would know when I was in position.
All was going according to plan until 1230 when, with about 2.5 miles still to run, I felt a heavy vibration in the tiller and the engine cut out. My immediate thought was that I hit an underwater obstruction. I glanced overboard at the rudder which appeared fine, and as it was free to move, and the boat was still moving, I tried re-starting the engine. It fired, but immediately cut out; and on further investigation, I found there was a large mass of white cloth-like material wrapped around the propeller. I tried to free it using a boat hook whilst leaning over the stern, but to no avail. Meanwhile, the boat was still moving, but now drifting off course and towards the shallows.
The wind was W’ly force 3, so I now raised the jib and sailed the boat down wind towards the anchorage position. Very soon however, Shahna Bacal was making over 3 knots and I was concerned I might damage the bowsprit if I dropped the anchor at this speed. I contemplated sailing past the anchorage position and then luffing up into the wind, but was concerned that without a working echo sounder I might run aground before luffing up, or end up over-shooting the anchorage position and dropping the anchor in deep water. I decided therefore, to drop the jib as I got closer in and to let the boat drift up to the anchorage position whilst lowering the anchor to 15 metres so that it would start to ‘bite’ as we entered shallow water.
After what seemed a very long time, the anchor ‘bit’ and Shahna Bacal finally brought up at 1412 in position 10˚05.4S; 123˚40.1E. As the wind was now gusting 20 knots I put 30 metres of chain in the water, then waited for the wind to die down whilst getting ready to go into the water to try and clear the propeller.
I called Rob and Sue and told them what had happened. My fear was that the engine had been damaged and I was going to be in Kupang for much longer than I planned….
I spent these last 5 days in Lombok sorting out the necessary paper work for leaving, and making my final preparations on board.
My passport with the new Indonesian visa was returned on Tuesday, 19 October; and my package from Singapore arrived that afternoon. I had a Covid-19 test on Wednesday, 20 October, and an inspection by customs on Thursday, 21 October. My port clearance papers finally came through late on Friday afternoon, 22 October.
I spoke to David on Rona on Wednesday. He had just arrived in Labuan Bajo, having motored all the way in light airs. The weather forecast predicted more light winds on this northern route, and l decided then, that I would take the southern route as it was shorter and the winds would likely be stronger for sailing. I could then perhaps, make it all the way to Darwin without stopping for fuel in Kupang.
After speaking with the marina manager,Albert, I decided accordingly, to clear out of Indonesia here at Gillegede in Lombok. Albert said that if I needed to stop for fuel I would still be able to do so at Kupang without clearing in again, as the fuel could be delivered to me on the boat; and he gave me the name and contact details of the person I should call to get fuel in Kupang.
I inspected the steering system and the crack in the steering ram. I could not seal the crack but as there was still oil in the system after some 10 hours of motoring to and from Gille Aer, I decided the leak should be manageable provided I had enough spare hydraulic oil; and I arranged for the marina to supply me with an extra 4 litres.
I cleaned and oiled the wood trim on the gunwales and cleaned the numerous rust streaks on the gunwales, deck and coach roof. I also cleaned the propeller and waterline, and was pleased to see there was little sign of any marine growth on the underwater hull.
I topped up the gas bottles and recharged my portable electrical equipment and tested my new handheld GPS unit. On the Friday morning I decided to check how many units of time remained on my sat phone, and was very glad I did, as there were only 96.5 units left. I immediately spoke to Rob who helped me to purchase further units from the AST agent in Singapore.
So on Friday evening after receiving my port clearance papers I settled my account with the marina, enjoyed dinner and a final few drinks ashore, then turned in excited about the voyage ahead.
I had an early breakfast then joined Jorg, Jakob, and Shirley for a trip into the main town of Mataram. This started with a boat trip from the marina to the mainland, where we were met by Aram, the driver of the car arranged by Jorg. We were then driven into Mataram, a picturesque journey along the coast of Lombok passing through the main port of Lembar, and which took 1.5 hours.
We spent the morning at the Epic-Centre, the main shopping mall in Mataram, doing our shopping. I bought 3 iPhone charging cables, and several other bits and pieces, including some dry stores from the main supermarket in the mall. Jorg and I then enjoyed a burger at the Burger King whilst waiting for Jakob and Shirley.
We spent the afternoon at a local temple, one Jorg had identified and which had been built by the King of Lombok in 1744. There are really two temples: the royal temple and the public temple, although both are now accessible by the public. The temple grounds include a large man-made square lake with a centre island and causeway. The lake was originally a swimming pool for the ladies of the King’s harem. The centre island was, and remains today a meeting place for the heads of the 6 religious groups in Lombok: Muslim (2), Hindu, Catholic, Protestant, and Buddhist. These meetings take place every month.
Thursday, 14 October
A working day. I prepared the wood trims on the gunwales for oiling again, and sorted out the boat for sailing out some time next week, after my new Indonesia visa has been issued (my current one expired today) and my Singapore order has been delivered (the goods are now in Jakarta and should arrive in Bali today).
Jorg and Jakob came by at 1500 and hoisted me up the main and mizzen masts so I could check the rigging – all good.
Friday, 15 October
I awoke to a pleasant sight: Rona was moored on the pier. David is taking her to Labuan Bajo, sailing during the day and stopping at night, and the marina was her first stop after leaving Bali. We arranged to meet up for dinner as I joined Jorg, Jakob, and Shirley for a trip to the main waterfalls in this part of the island.
These waterfalls are some way in land and a bit off the beaten track, but well worth the long drive. A guide took us around the park where the 4 waterfalls are located, which was just as well as the route to some of the falls is fairly tortuous and physically demanding for an old guy like me. Shirley however, seemed to make light of the various climbs and descents through the jungle!
All of the waterfalls are pretty, but the main and largest waterfall is particularly so. It consists of 4 separate falls of water flowing into a main stream in which two man made pools have been built for visitors to swim in. Shirley and I decided to try them out. The water was very cold but refreshing, and just what I needed after all the climbing during a hot and humid day.
Before leaving the park we stopped for lunch at one of the restaurants. The park is normally full of tourists but with Covid-19 there were few other visitors. Our timing was good, as the heavens opened during lunch!
After lunch we went to a traditional Indonesian village. Again, this is normally a popular tourist spot, but we were the only visitors and the “village” is clearly struggling. To help their finances a little, I bought a sarong and hand woven shirt.
Back at the marina I had dinner with David and his guest, Lee, who was born and grew up in Welyn Garden City in Hertfordshire – about 10 miles from my home! Lee now lives in Australia on the Gold Coast, when not staying in Bali. Small world!
Saturday, 16 October
I met David and Lee for breakfast and learned Rona was leaving the marina today for Gille Aer, the next stop on her passage to Labuan Bajo. Gille Aer is one of 3 islands off the NW coast of Lombok, at the northern end of the Lombok Strait. As Shahna Bacal was ready for sailing, I decided to go with them. A trip to Gille Aer and back would be a good shake down trip, during which I could test the hydraulic steering, autopilot, GPS and instruments.
Rona sailed at 1000, and I followed any hour later after settling up with the marina and checking out of my room. It was great to be back on board and on the water again. There was no wind so I was motoring .Everything appeared to be working well and as the autopilot was steering the boat I relaxed and enjoyed the trip. The wind picked up as we reached the northern end of the strait and I raised the main sail to check out the new outhaul arrangement which is a marked improvement on the old one. As black clouds were on the horizon, I then put in a reef in the main and the jammer on the first reefing line is now holding.
I had now caught up with Rona and as we were approaching Gille Aer I hung back and lowered the main sail, leaving Rona to go into the main bay first to find a mooring buoy. After mooring, she then launched her dinghy and helped me to find and tie up to one of the other mooring buoys; and I was all fast by 1612.
It was now that I located the leak in the hydraulic steering system. Looking over the stern I saw a slow, periodic drip from the starboard steering ram. The drip was not coming from any of the hose connections but from a hairline crack in the ram itself, between the universal joint and the main piston. I wrapped a rag tightly around the crack which stopped the dripping but not the leak.
At 1730 David picked me up in his dinghy and he, his son, and Lee and I went ashore for drinks and dinner. Gille Aer is the middle of the 3 islands, all of which are tourist destinations although Gille Aer, I was told, is the quietest of these islands. It is particularly quiet now, as there are few tourists and most of the beach resorts appeared empty as we walked past. Nevertheless, we enjoyed drinks and dinner on the beach at one of these resorts, before returning to our boats at 2130.
Sunday, 17 October
I was minded to stay in Gille Aer, but when I woke up at 0600 I saw a text from the marina informing me that my package from Singapore would arrive tomorrow and I decided to sail back immediately. Now the boat was ready I was keen to start the voyage to Darwin.
I checked the tides and got underway at 0730 so as to catch the south setting tidal stream. It was a clear day and the wind was light, and I made good progress, averaging 5 knots all the way back to the marina.
I returned the way I had left, passing to the east and south of Gillegede Island, and made fast starboard side alongside the end of the “T” pointing west, the direction I would sail out when leaving for Darwin. I was all fast by 1230, and after sorting out the boat, I spent the afternoon ashore relaxing by the pool. I returned to the boat after dinner, and relaxed in the cockpit wearing my new sarong.
Temple at MataramTemple at MataramWaterfall – with Jakob, Shirley, and JorgGille Aer – drinks with Lee, and David’s son
There was no requirement to quarantine on arrival and after clearing inwards I decided to book one of the rooms at the marina, where I stayed for the next two weeks. With the adrenalin rush over, I started to feel all the knocks, aches and pains I had accumulated during the voyage. I needed time to relax and recover, and also to fix the various problems with the boat; and these were my priorities during my first 10 days ashore in Lombok.
The marina kindly lent me a charging cable for my iPhone and it was great to be able to FaceTime Sue and Alexandra again, and to speak to friends. It was great too, to be able to get some uninterrupted sleep, a hot shower, and to eat fresh food again. And I needed to eat, as I had lost a couple of kilos during the voyage and was already a racing snake when I left Singapore in July.
There was a lot to do on the boat, starting with the first of several fresh water wash downs as the deck, sails and fittings were all salt encrusted. My main concerns however, were the hydraulic steering, and the GPS and instruments.
I removed the compass and engine panel from the steering pedestal but there was very little hydraulic oil inside the pedestal, and the 3 hose fittings at the back of wheel pump were all tight. The leak had to be at the rams therefore, and I refilled the hydraulic system, tightened up the hose fittings on both rams and operated the rudder several times. I could not see signs of any leaks and thought I had fixed this problem.
Amazingly, when I went to switch off the chart plotter after arriving at the marina I saw that it was now displaying my GPS position again, and from the recorded track of the boat, I saw that the GPS had come back on line around 1030 on 2 October as I started my approach to the marina. I checked the instruments and got readings again on all the gauges except a depth reading. After removing the air bubbles in the echo sounder transducer recess however, I was able to get depth readings again as well. I was also able now to see again, the AIS targets of the boats in the near vicinity. Everything was back to normal; but loose connections do not mysteriously tighten themselves and I suspected there might still be a problem. I decided to wait and see what happened on the voyage to Darwin.
I fixed a new catch to replace the one that broke on the hatch above my bunk in the fore cabin, resealed the two through deck cable glands at the bow, cleaned the chain locker, and tightened the securing bolts on the port side grating on the bow sprit. I replaced the staysail halyard and changed over the main and jib halyards (I have two of each permanently rigged). I rearranged the main sail outhaul arrangements putting a dyeema strop through the clew and around the boom; and I end for ended the two reefing lines for the main. I gave the engine a full service replacing the oil, filters, and V-belt; cleaned the seawater filter and checked the seawater pump impeller; and changed the oil in the gear box. I cleaned the fridges, and cleaned and greased all of the seacocks. I also planned my passage to Darwin, and filled up my diesel tanks and containers for this next part of the voyage.
I intended to go south of Lombok and the other Indonesian islands taking the shortest and most direct route to Darwin. When clearing in however, I got speaking to Grant and Mel who have been cruising around Australia and Indonesia for several years, and who were also making their way to Darwin. Grant told me he would be going north of Lombok and the other Indonesian islands, passing through the Alas Strait to Kupang in Timor and then on to Darwin. He said the weather and sea conditions on the direct route could be quite rough and the swell 2 to 3 metres high whilst there was nowhere to stop really before Kupang; and that he and most other long-term cruisers therefore, preferred this northern route. I decided to think about this and in the meantime, to order the charts I would need for this northern route. My ex-colleague, James Ng in Singapore, kindly arranged for these charts, and replacement spare engine parts and a hand-held GPS unit to be airfreighted to me at the marina.
As well as Grant and Mel, I also met a wonderful Argentinian couple who with their 6 children, two child helpers and one crew, are circumnavigating the Globe on their large catamaran, Ohaha; Jorg (German) who, with his crew Jakob (Polish), is circumnavigating the Globe on his boat, Aurelia; and an amazing lady, Shirley (South African), who is 73 years old and who, for the last 20 years, has been sailing around the World and living alone on her small (24 feet) boat, Speedwell of Hong Kong. And of course, the wonderfully friendly and helpful marina staff and their manager, Albert.
I got up twice during the night to look around, and for good at 0500, getting underway again at 0542. It was a beautiful clear day. The wind was now from the south, force 5 and the swell was also from the south and about 0.5 metres in height. Pulau Trewangan light was now on a SE’ly bearing, and some distance off, indicating I had been set to the north and west during the night.
I motored towards the light, and when closer in I altered onto a S’ly course to pass down the strait. I was able now to regularly fix my position using this and other navigational marks on the Lombok coast. My timing was good as the tidal stream was now setting in a S’ly direction and as the wind eased, I was soon making 6 knots.
As I headed south I passed through a large fleet of traditional Balinese fishing boats (Jukungs) sailing across the strait from Bali to Lombok. With their brightly coloured crab-claw sails they made a beautiful sight.
By 0900 I was at the southern end of the strait ready to make my approach to the marina. At 0930 I lowered the mizzen and rigged the ropes and fenders, and made contact with the marina. I then began my approach at 1030 heading eastwards through the outlying islands towards the marina.
The approach to the marina is very picturesque, and I went slowly taking time to enjoy this moment. A tender met me as I approached the dock and one of its crew jumped on board to help me with the lines. The marina consists of a T-shaped pier and I berthed port side alongside the end of the ‘T’; and was all fast by 1212. This was 1312 Lombok time (UTC+8 hours). I had kept the clocks on board on Batam time (UTC+7 hours), but now put them forward an hour.
The marina is in a lovely, very peaceful setting being a long way from any major town and on the small island of Gillegede. There were only a few other boats moored to the pier, but several on the nearby marina buoy moorings although most of these boats were locked up, their owners having gone home during Covid-19.
And so ended the first part of my voyage. In all, I had sailed 1424 miles to get here. Ignoring the times I spent hove-to, it had taken me 396.2 hours at an average speed of 3.59 knots. Of this time, 46% was spent motoring or motor sailing, and I had consumed 443 litres of diesel. As it turned out therefore, I did not need to take on extra fuel in Belitung and Karimunjawa but I am glad I did, both for the experiences I had there and for the peace of mind this gave me.
The wind died during the night and I lowered the main and head sails and motored with the mizzen on a SE’ly course direct towards Pulau Trewangan and the northern end of the Lombok Strait. By 0330 I was dead on my feet and hove-to in order to get some sleep. There was still no wind but the E’ly and SE’ly swells were still running, now about 1 metre in height.
I woke up after 2 hours and decided to get up. I tidied up the boat and after breakfast I resumed motoring at 0700. Not long thereafter I could see the island of Bali visible in the distance. At 0800 I took some visual bearings of the mountain peaks on the island but as these were partly shrouded in clouds the position I fixed was doubtful. At 1000 the wind started to pick up and I decided to raise the jib and motor sail with jib and mizzen (“jib and jigger” as it is known), and to head inshore towards the northern coast of Bali.
The wind continued to freshen and at 1130 I raised the main and stopped the engine. I still had the two reefs in the main because of the broken outhaul track and slide.
At 1200 I fixed my position again taking visual bearings of the mountain peaks, which were still partly covered by clouds. My position – 08˚06S; 115˚33E – was still somewhat doubtful therefore, but it fitted well with my estimate of where we were. I then spent the next 4 hours or so tacking along the northern coast of Bali with the wind a steady ESE force 4; and with the island of Lombok now visible in the distance.
At 1600 the wind eased so I lowered the jib and began motor sailing due east so as to cross over to the Lombok side of the strait whilst still well north of the entrance thereto. The currents in the Lombok Strait are particularly strong and there is a traffic separation scheme (TSS) in operation in the strait. Rather than enter the strait on the Bali side and then try to cross the TSS in strong currents, my plan was to cross over now to the Lombok side. I intended then, to heave-to for the night and enter the strait in daylight, passing down the coast of Lombok to Marina Del Ray, which is situated on the island of Gillegede on the western side of Lombok at the southern end of the strait.
At 1800 the wind began increasing in strength and veered round, becoming S’ly force 6. I was expecting this, as the wind funnels between the islands; and I took it as confirmation I was now crossing the entrance to the strait. I continued motor sailing until 2100, when I estimated my position to be 08˚09S; 116˚00E. I could not see Pulau Trewangan light but believed I was now over on the Lombok side of the strait; and as I was very tired I now lowered the main and hove-to.
Although the wind was steady, the sea and swell made for an uncomfortable night, but I went to bed excited about the prospect of reaching the marina tomorrow.
Friday, 1 October
I got up twice during the night to look around, and at 0330 I stayed up and set about sorting out the mooring lines and fenders ready for my arrival at the marina. I then had an early breakfast and resumed my passage at 0518 with the sun now rising. It was a clear day but the wind was now S’ly force 7, and there was now a noticeable S’ly swell of about 3 metres.
It also soon became apparent to me that I had mis-judged my position. In the early morning sun the highest peak on Bali – Gurung Agung mountain – was clearly visible and at 0600 it was bearing 210˚M. I was still on the Bali side of the strait and on re-working my positions, I estimated I was still some 30 miles NE of Pulau Trewangan. Clearly, I was not going to get to the marina today and this left me feeling somewhat deflated!
I raised the jib and stopped the engine, sailing now with just the jib and mizzen. I contemplated raising the main but as the wind was strong and I could steer 120˚M and the boat appeared to be making about 5 knots, I decided not to do so. My hope was that the wind would die away, but it didn’t and I resigned myself to a long day of battling my way across the entrance to the Lombok Strait.
As I passed across the entrance the wind veered round, becoming SSW’ly as it fanned out and bent around the island of Lombok. This lift, and the effect of the strong south going tidal stream in the strait, meant I was pleasantly surprised as the sun set and the night came on, to be able to see lights on the coast of Lombok. Not long thereafter, I was able to make out Pulau Trewangan light, and at 2000 this light was bearing 180˚M.
In the dark the shore lights of Lombok appeared much closer than they probably were, and to ensure I did not get too close inshore I used a clearing bearing and tacked when Pulau Trewangan light was bearing 230˚M. The wind had now eased, and I motor sailed towards the light on this bearing until I estimated I was about a mile away, and then lowered the jib and hove-to. It was now 2230 and the light was bearing 165˚M.
I sat a while in the cockpit after heaving-to, and it was my impression that Shahna Bacal was getting closer to the light. This could be because she was ‘sailing’ with the mizzen pushing the bow up into the S’ly wind, or because the tidal stream through the strait was still setting her to the south. Either way, I decided to make more sea-room before turning in, and proceeded to motor for the next 30 minutes or so in a NE’ly direction until I estimated I was at least 3 miles away from the light and the island.
How ironic: after 3 weeks of battling my way to get to Marina Del Ray in Lombok, I had just spent the last half an hour motoring away from it!
